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Chapel Hill a Hundred Years Ago

by Charly Mann

Chapel Hill has changed a lot in the last 100 years. Since starting Chapel Hill Memories a year ago I have been fortunate to talk to two centenarians from Chapel Hill which has inspired me to write about what the town was like in 1910.

UNC's Old Well painting

The population of Chapel Hill in 1910 was 1,449. The total value of all the real estate and personal property in town was less than a million dollars. The combined value of all the buildings, houses, and property in Chapel Hill that year was $410,562. All the personal property in town had a value of $585,750.

UNC social club
UNC students gather in front of their social club in downtown Chapel Hill with their servant in 1910

The mayor of Chapel Hill was Algernon S. Barbee, who graduated from the University of North Carolina in 1860 and served as Lieutenant Commander for the Confederacy during the Civil War. The chief of police was D.S. Long.

Chapel Hill Mayor
1910 Chapel Hill mayor Algernon Barbee

Chapel Hill had four churches in 1910. Reverend Starr was the minister at Chapel of the Cross, the Episcopal church. R.L. Smith was the minister of the Baptist congregation. W.S. Patton was the pastor for the Methodists, and Mr. Moss was reverend at the Presbyterian church.

University Recruitment Ad
Advertisement for the University of North Carolina in 1910. In those days there were no SATs or college entrance exams. Most students who went to UNC came from wealthy and upper middle class families.

More than half of the population of Chapel Hill were farmers, and their primary cash crop was cotton. A lucrative business in town in those days was owning a cotton gin, and there were six of these in Chapel Hill in 1910. These machines quickly separated commercial cotton from its seeds. Fred Sparrow, I.S. Riggsbee, and G.W. Purefoy had the three most popular cotton gins in town.

Cubam Student at UNC 1910
During the early twentieth century many wealthy Cubans sent their sons to UNC, and there was even a Cuban club on campus. This is Francisco Fuentes from the UNC class of 1910.

Chapel Hill had two hotels in 1910, the University Inn and Pickard's Hotel, both were rather rustic and primitive. If you could afford it, better lodging could be found at numerous boarding houses in town, which were actually local houses that had extra rooms for rent. The best was the home of Mrs. A.A. Kluttz. The other houses in town that rented rooms were run by Mrs. W.L. Thankersley, Mrs. Gattis, Mrs. J.C. Cole, Mrs. Josephine Archer, Mrs. E.W. Nevill, Mrs. Mary Burch, Mrs. J.E. Merritt, Mrs. W.J. A. Cheek, and Mrs. R.S. McRea. Most of these women's husbands were merchants in town or professors at the University. Two men, W.B. Thompson and T.B. Farrar also rented rooms in their houses. Swain Hall, besides being the student dining hall, was then the most inexpensive place to rent a room. There was no running water nor indoor plumbing in any of these hotels or boarding houses in 1910.

Rock wall along Franklin Street
An old man in 1910 standing by a rock wall along Franklin Street next to where Graham Memorial is today. In the background is the Pickard Hotel. 

Hot and Cold Baths
In 1910 there was only a rudimentry water service in Chapel Hill and there was no indoor plumbing nor hot water. People did not bathe on a regular basis, but in 1910 a business in town offered hot baths. 

There were three drug stores in Chapel Hill in 1910; Eubanks, Patterson Brothers, and Norwood Drug Company, as well as four town doctors, Lewis Webb, E.A. Abernathy, C.S. Mangum, and Brack Lloyd. If you wanted meat there were two butcher shops where chicken and cows were regularly slaughtered in the back. They were owned by William Creel and R.M. Leigh.

Homes and buildings in 1910 were heated in Chapel Hill by either by coal or wood, and two merchants in town, G.C. Pickard and T.E. Best, provided these essentials. There was electricity in Chapel Hill then but it was primarily used for lighting, and the electric company was owned and operated by the University. There were also two hardware stores in town; one owned by S.L. Herndon and the other by H.C. Willis.

1910 Baseball Team
1910 UNC baseball team. Until the early 1960's college baseball was almost as popular as football in North Carolina. (Basketball did not attract a large following until about 1960.) From 1935 to 1986 North Carolina was the only state that had Easter Monday as a state holiday because it was the day of the NC State - Wake Forest baseball game 

Chapel Hill had only two small restaurants in 1910, one in the house of J.E. Gouch (later changed to Gooch), and the Royal Cafe.

Indigestion Guaranteed
This is a 1910 parody ad for Gooch's Cafe, then one of only two restaurants in Chapel Hill

Shoes were often custom made in those days, and Chapel Hill had two shoe makers, George Trice and Brooks Brewer. The primary means of transportation in town was by horse, and Chapel Hill had two thriving livery stables, one owned by G.C. Pickard and the other by L.J. Hargrave. One was located behind where the Carolina Coffee Shop is today, and the other where the sundial now stands in front of the Morehead Planetarium.

Black coach driver
A black carriage driver with "yessuh boss" attached to photo in Chapel Hill from 1910. Fifty years later there were two taxi services in Chapel Hill. One was white owned and operated called Tarheel Cab, and the other was black called Carolina Cab. Carolina Cab operated more than 16 blue and white Checker cabs and was the dominant cab company for both black and white passengers by 1965.

Livery Stable Ad
Mr. Pickard was a successful businessman who was also a grocer and owned a hotel. This ad is from 1910. Later they would offer a shuttle service by automobile to Durham.

In 1910 Chapel Hill had a weekly newspaper called The Weekly News that was operated by W.B. Thompson. The Tar Heel in those days was published twice a month. Few people in town could afford a camera, but Robert Foister and W.B. Sorrell had photography shops downtown where you could get a portrait made.

Black Servant in Chapel Hill
This is a black UNC servant carrying student laundry in front of Foister's Camera store on Franklin Street in Chapel Hill in 1910.

The average lifespan for a Chapel Hill resident in 1910 was 47. E.A. Brown and A.J. Hargrave were the town's two undertakers and embalmers.

In 1910 UNC's debate team won contests against Tulane and the University of Pennsylvania, both of which received more press coverage than any sporting event.

Levy Ames Brown
UNC Class of 1910 senior Levy Ames Brown. Note he graduated at the age of 18. In those days every student knew everyone else enrolled in their class.

As a young boy in the 1950s I spent a lot of time in the woods around Chapel Hill and often found abandoned saw mills (There was even one in the woods behind Glenwood School). I have discovered that in 1910 there were seven saw mills in operation in what are now Chapel Hill's city limits.


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Comments:

Kaiden      2:29 PM Fri 8/19/2011

Thanks for shinarg. What a pleasure to read!
 

Stephen Hait      8:59 PM Tue 2/8/2011

Really enjoyed this piece, Charly. Thanks so much for all your work!
 

Ron Wells      1:33 PM Mon 1/31/2011

I've had the pleasure of inspecting a lot of the older buildings in town, including the Horace Williams house, the old law office, etc. I was told that 400 W. Columbia Street had the first indoor plumbing (there was still a 1927 commode in a servants area when I inspected it 20 or so years ago).
 

bill davenport      11:04 PM Mon 5/17/2010

growing up in chapel hill in the sixties and seventies, I drove a cab for tar heel cab company in the early seventies while in school. the location was called " crooks corner", and currently is home to a restaurant of the same name. the experience brings back many memories of long ago, and of a chapel hill that no longer exists. it is a much different place now, when I return for a visit, I am amazed by the changes. thanks for the memories
 

Karen Hill      6:14 PM Fri 4/30/2010

Just discovered your site, and have spent the last four hours reading many of the articles. As a former resident this brings back lots of great memories.
 

Rebecca Cole      6:47 AM Thu 4/29/2010

This is fascinating. I had no idea how much Chapel Hill had changed in the last 100 years. Are you the "official" historian of Chapel Hill?
 

Danial Foushee      9:19 AM Tue 4/27/2010

As someone who just turned 70, 100 years ago does not seem that long ago, but no indoor plumbing, cars, central heat, and air-conditioning make me appreciate just how far we have come and how quickly it has happened.
 

Becky Gordon      9:30 PM Mon 4/26/2010

What a great piece. This really puts time into perspective for me. How did you get all those great old photos and ads?
 

Bill B.      7:27 PM Mon 4/26/2010

Very interesting information and very good research, Charly.

My memories of Chapel Hill are from about 50 years ago today. It's interesting to think that at that time there were people like me with memories from 50 years previous and some of them are still around.

The Mayor must have been quite old since the Civil war had been over for 45 years.
 

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Investment strategies and advice about Apple Inc. and related technology companies by Charly Mann.
www.appleinvesting.com

 



Chapel Hill is located on a hill whose only distinguishing feature in the 18th century was a small chapel on top called New Hope Chapel. This church was built in 1752 and is currently the location of The Carolina Inn. The town was founded in 1819, and chartered in 1851.

 

 

What is it that binds us to this place as to no other? It is not the well or the bell or the stone walls. or the crisp October nights. No, our love for this place is based upon the fact that it is as it was meant to be, The University of the People.

-- Charles Kuralt

 

 

Dark Side of the Hill -- Pink Floyd, the creators of the most popular album in history, Dark Side of the Moon, took the second half of their name from Floyd Council, a Chapel Hill native, and great blues singer and guitarist. He once belonged to a group called "The Chapel Hillbillies".

 

 

Check out Charly Mann's other website:
Oklahoma Birds and Butterflies

http://oklahomabirdsandbutterflies.com

 



We need your help. Send your submissions, ideas, photos, and questions to CHMemories@gmail.com.

 

 

 

 

There would probably be no Chapel Hill if the University of North Carolina Board of Trustees in 1793 had not chosen land across from New Hope Chapel for the location of the university. By 1800 there were about 100 people living in thirty houses surrounding the campus.

 

 

The University North Carolina's first student was Hinton James, who enrolled in February, 1795. There is now a dormitory on the campus named in his honor.

 

 

 

 

The University of North Carolina was closed from 1870 to 1875 because of lack of state funding.

 

 

 

 

William Ackland left his art collection and $1.25 million to Duke University in 1940 on the condition that he would be buried in the art museum that the University was to build with his bequest. Duke rejected this condition even though members of the Duke Family are buried in Duke Chapel. What followed was a long and acrimonious legal battle between Ackland relatives who now wanted the inheritance, Rollins College, and the University of North Carolina, each attempting to receive the funds. The case went all the way to the United States Supreme Court, and in 1949 UNC was awarded the money for the museum. Ackland is buried near the museum's entrance. When the museum first opened, in the early sixties, there were rumors that his remains were leaking out of the mausoleum.

 

 

The official name of the Arboretum on the University of North Carolina campus is the Coker Arboretum. It is named after Dr. William Cocker, the University's first botany professor. It occupies a little more than five acres. It was founded in 1903.

 

 

Chapel Hill's main street has always been called Franklin Street. It was named after Benjamin Franklin in the early 1790s.

 

 



We need your help. Send your submissions, ideas, photos, and questions to CHMemories@gmail.com.

 

 

Chapel Hill High School and Chapel Hill Junior High were on Franklin Street in the same location as University Square until the mid 1960s.

 

 

The Colonial Drug Store at 450 West Franklin Street was owned and operated by John Carswell. It was famous for a fresh-squeezed carbonated orange beverage called a "Big O". In the early 1970s, I managed the Record and Tape Center next door, and must have had over 100 of those drinks. The Colonial Drug Store closed in 1996.

 

 

Sutton's Drugstore, which opened in 1923, has one of the last soda fountains in the South. It is one of the few businesses remaining on Franklin Street that was in operation when I was growing up in the 1950s.

 

 

Future President Gerald Ford lived in Chapel Hill twice. First when he was 24, in 1938, he took a law couse in summer school at UNC. He lived in the Carr Building, which was a law school dormitory. At the same time, Richard Nixon, the man he served under as Vice President, was attending law school at Duke. In 1942, Ford returned to Chapel Hill to attend the U.S. Navy's Pre-Flight School training program. He lived in a rental house on Hidden Hills Drive.

 

 

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